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Step
1: Spacing the Fence Posts
As a rule, you should set fence posts about 6' to 8' apart. The
spacing of the posts depends on the type of fence you build, the
terrain, the purpose of the fence, and other such factors.
Set the corner or end post first.
Then stretch a line from each corner or end post to align all the
posts in between.
Drive a stake every 6' to 8' at
the exact position where the post hole is to be dug.
Take time to measure and position
the posts accurately. The appearance and the structural strength of
your fence depends a great deal on the positioning of the fence
posts. |
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Step
2: Setting the Fence Posts
Set all wood fence posts with about 1/3 of their total length buried
in the ground. This is especially important on corner posts and any
posts that will carry heavy weight or withstand high wind pressure.
Use a regular post hole digger to
dig the post holes. Dig the holes straight to the proper depth at
each stake marker.
You can anchor the posts more
firmly by making the holes slightly larger at the bottom than at the
top. Place a large stone or two shovels full of gravel in the bottom
of each hole. This provides drainage to avoid excessive moisture at
the base of each post.
Use a wood preservative to treat
the section of the post that will be underground. Allow the post to
stand overnight in the preservative so it can become well-saturated.
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Step 3:
Packing the Posts
You can pack the posts with either dirt or concrete. In either case,
place two or three shovels full of gravel in the bottom of each hole
before the post is placed into position.
Be sure the posts are in an exact,
upright position. You can check the alignment of each post with a
regular level. You can also check the alignment of the posts in one
direction by sighting from one end of the row of posts to the other.
Brace each post with stakes after
it is properly aligned. Keep the stakes in position until the
concrete (if used) has thoroughly set. Remove the nails holding the
braces and readjust the post until it is in accurate alignment.
When the post is properly
aligned, tamp it thoroughly to pack the dirt (if used) around the
base of the post. Be sure you do not alter the alignment of the post
during the tamping process.
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Step 4:
Setting the Posts
When the post is firmly in position, build a mound around it to help
eliminate water standing at the post base. Slope the concrete
slightly away from the post and round it off with a trowel. Tamp the
concrete lightly to eliminate any air bubbles left in the mixture
that can act as water pockets. |
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Provide
extra bracing at all corners. A corner post must carry the weight of
fence stretched in two directions, so it should be set in both
directions. Allow the posts to stand several days and settle firmly
in position before adding the fence.
The heads of posts should be
rounded, capped or slanted to help eliminate accumulating water,
which can cause rotting. This is well-worth the effort since it
allows the posts to last. |
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Step
5: Adding Rails to Fence Posts
Attach a top and bottom rail to the fence posts. There are three
basic ways to do this.
The center illustration shows the
top rail being nailed to the top of the post. This is an ideal
installation for many types of fencing structures. The top rail can
always be joined to another rail in the center of a post this way.
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If the
rail is added on the body of the post rather than at the top, attach
it with a groove, a wood block or a metal bracket. You can attach
the bottom rail to the post by either of the two outside
illustrations. This picture illustrates several other ways to attach
a rail to a fence post. Study them carefully. The type of joint you
use to attach the fence supports to the post depends primarily on
the type of fence you are building.
- The lap joint is one of the
easiest to use. The grooved joint does basically the same job, but
the rail is grooved into the post rather than being nailed to the
post surface.
The butt joint is a little more
difficult to make but is often better. The mortised joint is even
neater than the butt joint, but you must cut a mortise into the
post for this joint.
The slotted joint is commonly
used on decorative fences. Treat all slotted joints with
preservative to prevent rotting in the grooved areas.
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Step 6:
Measuring Up
Take time to measure from the top rail to be sure the bottom rail on
each is in perfect alignment. After you have measured one post, cut
a measuring stick to prevent having to make an actual measurement on
each post. The stick can be used to apply the same measurement to
each post. |
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Step 7:
Choose A Fence Type
There are literally hundreds of variations in fence styles and
construction materials. There is pre-assembled wood fencing sections
as well as fencing materials made from recycled milk jugs. The type
of fence you use depends primarily on the purpose. |
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Barrier Fence
Fences, like the type shown, are used primarily for barriers. They
are easy to build, however, they are usually not very decorative and
they provide very little, if any, privacy.
Fences like those illustrated
provide barriers and are more attractive than an ordinary fence.
With a little shrubbery or plants, such fences can provide very
attractive barriers along property lines. |
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Privacy Screen Fences
Fences, such as those illustrated, are primarily privacy screens.
They can be built as tall as needed out of many different materials.
Their primary purpose is privacy.
Consider your needs when selecting
the style of your fence. If you want a simple barrier, a wire fence
or a simple style fence such as illustrated above, will work fine.
For a barrier that enhances the appearance, consider styles similar
to those illustrated by a picket fence.
For added privacy, consider the
styles illustrated here. |
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Easy to Build Fence
This illustrates four basic styles of
easy-to-build fence. Each style has the same basic top, center and
bottom rail construction. However, the fences look entirely
different with the various rail treatments.
Study the designs at left
carefully. Decide which of these styles you prefer, or use a little
imagination and create your own fencing design to apply to the basic
rail fencing structure. |
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Picket Fence
Picket fences are very popular and easy to build. With a little
ingenuity you can create attractive picket designs. Use the designs
shown here or your own designs to create a distinctive picket fence.
Make sure that all the pickets are
spaced by inserting a loose picket between the picket previously
nailed into position and the picket to be nailed. Use this easy
method throughout the entire fencing construction.
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Basket Weave Fence
A basket weave fence is often used on a sloping terrain. This style
of fence allows you to raise or lower each post.
Use a good-quality board to build
a basket weave fence. Boards full of knots may break easily when
placed under the stress of basket weaving. |
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Simple Board Fence
A simple board fence is easy to build and can be quite attractive.
You can place the boards on one side or alternate them from side to
side.
The board fence provides both a
barrier and privacy. It can be built as tall as needed and then
stained, painted or left natural. You can design a siding fence to
match the siding on your home of this style. In fact, you can use
the same siding that was used on the home to build the fence.
The siding fence can be covered on
one side or both. Then, you can paint it to match or harmonize with
the paint on your home. These are only a few of the many styles of
fencing available. Fences are easy to build, and the materials are
readily available. |
Fences keep what you
want in the yard and unwanted guests out. They also add interest to your
backyard or garden. A fence may seem like a labor intensive and
artistically challenged project, but it doesn't have to be. You can buy
premade fences, buy kits to make your own or, for those truly artistic,
you can make any kind you want. To make erecting a fence even easier,
these instructions use post spikes instead of concrete to keep posts in
place. 
Please
Note:
Tip:
